My Endless Summer 俺のエンドレスサマー

Friendly Surf Town San Clemente 街全体がフレンドリー&サーフカルチャーなサンクレメンテ カリフォルニア 5

San Clemente was most comfortable surf town among towns I visited this time. It is a compact town and made me feel like being in Europe.

After surfing hard 8feet at Blacks, I visited Ray working at Crepe shop in San Clemente near the pier.  I made friend with him in Huntington Beach and He is a crepe chef.

He said, he will finish his work at 2PM so I took a nap in my car while waiting for him. Actually I did not want to surf anymore that day as I was surfed out at Blacks in the morning. But Ray insisted and said, “I am done with my work today. Dude, look at that pumping waves. Let’s get into the water! I will introduce you to my friends.”  Then, I said “Alright, Let’s go.”

Ray’s friend, Reed came with us as well. Ray said, Reed is a surgeon and has been taking care of locals in case they get injured. Reed loves surfing so much that he went to Mentawai with photographer for surf trip. As they are locals, in the water everybody knows everybody. I was introduced to many people and liked that welcome vibes so much.

We surfed at T street, which is 100 meters left of the piers. It was a reef break on the beach, easy take-off, shoulder to head high on that day. I called it Angel break as opposed to devil break at Blacks. When I catch one of the best set that day, Kids in the water cheered for me. It was quite fun condition with clean face.  Around 5PM, It is getting crowded a bit as local kids finished school and came to lineup.   After surf, we took a hot shower outside at Ray’s friend apartment entrance. He took me out to local Thai restaurant and bar where his brazilian friend,Maria, is working. It seems bar owner likes surfing, I found some surf art pictures hanging on the wall. I sipped some local beer, called hop juice.

I was too tired to move around anymore and just crushed in the car without moving to appropriate overnight parking spot.


Blacksで8ft Monsterでクタクタになるまでサーフした後、ハンティントンで友達になったRayを尋ねてサンクレメンテのクレープ屋さんへ。Rayはここで働いているクレープシェフです。



友達のローカル 外科医師のReedも一緒に来て 入水。サーフィンで怪我した人はReedに言えば診察してくれるらしいです。Reedはメンタワイまで行って撮影するくらいサーフィンにどっぷり。  皆顔見知りなのですぐに色々紹介してもらうも人数が多くて覚えきれない。珍しいのか色んな人が声を掛けてくる。

サンクレメンテのビーチの左(南側 ピアから徒歩1分) T Streetで入水 ビーチですが割れだすところはリーフ、そして割れ方もとても優しくて乗り易い。この日はサンクレメンテは肩ー頭ShoulderHead Highくらい。



完全にクタクタになりながら、近所で評判のタイレストラン へ グリーンカレーが美味しい。その後そのまま斜め迎えの、Rayの馴染みバーへ ここでもまたバーテンダーでブラジリアンのマリアやその他たくさんの友達に紹介してもらった。このバーがオーナーが波乗り好きらしく、波の色んな写真が飾って面白かったですHop Juiceという地ビール? を飲んでみた。

街全体が小さいので皆顔見知り、そして綺麗で治安の良さそうだったのでそのまま気絶するかのように車中泊。 起きたらビーチ前のBeach Cafeで朝食 オムレツとトーストが美味しいけど食べ過ぎて気持ち悪くなった。


Ideal office on the beach. I need this life style. こんなオフィスなら仕事はかどりそう。


Pier South Side 100 meter left is T street ここの左側がT Streetになります。


Service dog@ Beach Cafe, Good boy! で見かけた犬 利口でした。

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Tasty Omlet with cheese @ beach cafe オムレツとても美味しかった。


Lady working at restaurant gave me heads up NOT to surf when you are full. おばちゃんに食べ過ぎたなら入水しちゃダメよと諭される。


Forgot the name of the restaurant. Kind of famous Thai restaurant in San Clemente.名前は忘れたけどサンクレメンテでタイ料理といえばここらしいです。

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Even train named after surf, “SURF LINER”. 電車の名前もSurf Liner

Next day, we surfed together again at New Port beach and said good bye to Ray.


-The best time is early in the morning as it gets crowded with kids after 5PM.                                  -It picks up both south and north swells.                                                                                          -T street, surfable at all tide. Pier south side will be dumper at low tide.


翌日はRayが休みだったので朝からNew Port Beachでサーフ そしてここでお別れ。

#TIPS                                                           サンクレメンテ やはり夕方5時以降はサーフクラブのキッズで混むので朝一がおススメ


T Streetはall tideサーフ可能 ピア south sideはロータイド時ダンパー気味

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