My Endless Summer 俺のエンドレスサマー

Ocean Side Surf Museum 温かいローカルとサーフィンミュージアム カリフォルニア 4

After spending 3 days in Huntington beach, I headed to famous surf town, Ocean Side. I picked up a morning coffee at Starbucks and drove down to Ocean Side. I found several surfers on the north side of the pier as soon as I arrive there.  I asked a local about general information in the area and got into the water.

It was bit mellow break with high tide, shoulder high wave. It was still fun as it was uncrowded. It will be a dangerous situation when sets come in if you ride all the way to inside the pier from North side as you will be trapped between pier concrete legs.


Huntington Beachで3日間過ごした後、雑誌などでサーフタウンとして有名ということだったのでOcean Sideに行く事に、スタバのコーヒー飲みながら朝一車を走らせ到着すると、ピアの北側に数人のサーファーを発見、準備中のローカルのおじさんにポイント周りの情報を一通り聞いて入水。


前のエントリに書いた通り、ピアの北側でレギュラーでピアの中に入るまで乗ってしまうと、とどんどん吸い込まれて、セットが連発で来るととても危険でした。 写真はピアの南側

Pier south side@ Ocean Side


Local gave me a heads up about the pier, not to ride all the way as he saw me almost getting trapped inside the pier.  He also told me that 2 weeks ago, it jacked up to 10 feet and in that condition, it will be really dangerous if you get close to the pier. After surf, I went for lunch  in the city center and came across Surf Museum. I did not know about it but went in anyway.

It will be on main street after bridge if you walk from the beach.


「カリフォルニアでのサーフィン楽しんでね、2週間くらいまえは10ftオーバーの時あったんだよ」と言われ、ワックスと駐車券までもらいました、ありがたい。10ftオーバーは….自分には多分無理 笑。





Main attraction is a Bethany Hamilton’s surfboard, She was using this when attacked by shark at age 13. It explains now she is using a board which has more volume to compensate paddle power.

目玉はやっぱり ソウルサーファーのモデルになったBethany Hamilltonのサーフボード 13歳の時に片腕を無くした時にのっていたものだそうです。そして今はやはり浮力多めの板を使っている事も書いてありました。

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Beautiful Duck Dive(美しいドルフィンスルー)

I injured my shoulder before this trip and still suffers joint pain and restricted joint movement. It is nothing as compared to completely losing entire arm but I still have hard time striking a balance myself when taking off. I can not even imagine how hard it is to surf with one arm, just impressed by her passion to chase waves.


Early stage Thruster 初期のスラスター

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ツインフィン Twinfins Marc Richard


I had been wondering long time if Simon Anderson did register/patent his thruster(3 fins) invention.  Actually he never did but he even encourage other surfers to use thruster system. It cleared up my long time question.  I am proud of using his board, XFC.

In the afternoon, I surfed at south side pier. At low tide, when head high set rolls in, it creates a barrel. A little girl made a barrel that day and screamed ” I came out of that thing”.

On that day, it was quite fun condition and able to ride longer than normal beach break probably due to good sand bar situation. All in all, with friendly locals and good waves, it was really fun to surf in Ocean Side.

また自分の中で、Simon Anderson スラスターシステム(3本フィン)の発明者が特許をとっているか気になっていたのですが、特許も商標登録も取っていないということでした。



キッズがミニチューブをメイクして、しきりに「I came out of that thing」抜けれたー と叫んでました。


というわけで大満足なOcean Sideでした。

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